![]() ![]() None of these creations fell flat per se, and engaged Angelenos are forever drawing creative influence from the city’s rich pluralism. Mulhwe, a soup of raw fish in chilled broth, was reengineered to evoke ceviche. A crackery wafer, resembling a flour tortilla, might be topped with uni and trout roe and presented in a pizza box. As a starter snack he would fashion tiny tacos filled with avocado and truffle or braised pork and kimchi the shells were painstakingly formed from sheets of seaweed dehydrated and fried in-house. Rather than a preset beverage pairing, there’s a concisely edited list of a dozen-plus wines, mostly Old World and nearly all of them available by the glass, and a Brooklyn brewer’s milky, savory-sweet makgeolli that vibes with the food.Īt the restaurant’s inception, Kim followed a line of thinking often pursued by newly arrived chefs: He dipped into L.A.-themed signifiers. The meal unfolds at a synchronized clip - not rushed, but definitely not draggy - with most of the dishes assembled by the chefs behind the counter of what was a sushi bar in the space’s previous life cycle. ![]() Kinn has never been about the ornate, hours-long notion of a tasting menu. So many people opted in that Kim added it as a permanent sixth course, bumping the total price of dinners up to $95 per person. The octopus was a $20 supplement until recently. Its silken texture stands out sharply against wisps of octopus that have been boiled until tender, air-dried, and then deep-fried to crispness just before serving. The team pipes the sauce across plates in squiggles and yolk-sized blobs. It turns a shimmery burnt orange folded into aioli the chile registers more as a dusky, earthy flavor than as an element of heat. It reduces from 10 liters down to a half-pint of an intense, nearly sentient substance that’s somewhere between liquid and solid. He and his small crew - chefs Joshua Suh, Zack Cornell and Daniel Chong - emulate the paste’s flavor by simmering octopus heads with chile flakes, scallions and onions in stock. There’s technically no gochujang in Kim’s sauce. Its inspiration came from both nakji-bokkeum, a classic dish of spicy stir-fried octopus, and a standout braised octopus course at Jungsik that Kim helped make daily during his time at the restaurant and now takes in his own direction. But the area isn’t yet known as an incubator for young Korean chefs with fine-dining backgrounds rendering their personal narratives on the plate. In its gastropubs and kimbap bars, novelties may roll through in the form of truffle kimchi fried rice, cream cheese-anchovy rolls or bulgogi nachos. ![]() We cherish cloudy, nourishing soups feasts of banchan and raw crab at treasured Soban and specialists that excel in soondubu, cold noodles and dumplings, bossam and galbi. We’ll never tire of tabletop barbecue, in rooms both weathered and gleaming. But its finest Korean restaurants generally lean toward time-honored articulations of the cuisine. Koreatown - our nerve center with its layers of cultures and generations and dichotomies teeming in its three square miles - defies static characterization. While orchestrating dosirak takeout pop-ups to stay afloat during the shutdowns, he settled in to understand the new home in which he’d be striving to express himself. Raised in Korea before his family immigrated to the U.S., Kim moved to Los Angeles from New York in 2020. ![]()
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